First Encounter

I'd dreamt of owning a house in France for as long as I can remember. I toyed briefly with a small garret in Paris -- don't we all -- but I began to look seriously in the Languedoc region in the south of France in 1999. A lot of ground was covered, from the Rhone to the Pyrenees and back again. Houses came and went for various reasons before I finally took the plunge and put my signature on an Acte de vente in 2004.

At the time I was staying at my friends Lizzie & Ali's splendid 17th Century chambres d'hotes, Le Couvent.

Late the sweltering afternoon of 26 July (the day I'd signed the final deed), a fire broke out nearby. It's terrifying in that part of the world, where it's baking hot and tinder dry. The Canadairs, filled with water, were swooping so low they seemed to skim the top of the Virgin's mantle. We later learned that it had been the déchetterie (UK = tip, US = dump) that had gone up.

After the drama subsided, I remember noticing the house above Le Couvent for the first time. What a fantastic position. I said, I wish I could buy that house up there. Lizzie explained that it had been in the same family for several generations. The way French inheritance laws work, you assume it will go to the children, so I never really thought about it again. Besides, I had just bought this sweet house in Abeilhan, 8 kms away. The ink on the contract was barely dry.

Fast forward nearly three years. The renovation in Abeilhan is just about finished, costing -- like they all do -- about double your original intent. I'd run into my share of drama in the form of termites, but the house had finally been sorted. A roof terrace had been added with magnificent views; the house now had its bit of highly-coveted outdoor space. The sunsets were breathtaking! I loved spending time there, particularly with my wonderful friends in the surrounding villages, and was looking forward to getting some enjoyment out of the place now that tools had been downed.

During a routine visit at the end of September 2006, L&A couldn't wait to show me the new bikes they'd just bought for guests to use. Where did you find such great bikes? From Madame B who lives in the house above, she's having a clear-out because she wants to sell the house. Oh-oh. Time stood still for a moment. There was a look of wide-eyed recognition...you mean to tell me that house is for sale?? My life changed from almost that instant.

Like an old-fashioned screen goddess, she's best lit from underneath.

I had to return to London the next day, having only snooped around the outside. I found myself waking up in the middle of the night; I couldn't get the house out of my mind. I hadn't seen inside and didn't know the price, but it was in the best location I could ever imagine. I got in touch with the owner. Mme B was getting ready to pack up and head back to Switzerland, where she lives most of the year.

She asked, could I come down to see it the next fortnight?