Saturday
Thursday
Sunny Lunch
It had been grey and stormy for days, but yesterday was perfect. We took full advantage and headed into the foothills of the Cévennes to the Auberge de Combes for lunch. We ate outside, basking in the sun. The other guests chose to eat indoors. Crazy, but it meant Henny and I had the terrace all to ourselves. Delicious and interesting food. Great view. Perfect timing. Today the storms are back in full force. We're on orange alert for two more days. Hard to believe yesterday looked like this.
Monday
Montpellier Opera Chorus
The Choeurs de l'Opéra National de Montpellier were practically around the corner yesterday, giving a concert at the church in Fontès. 32 voices under the direction of their splendid conductor, Noëlle Gény. Opera choruses suffer slightly from being taken out of context. They usually require the entrance of a heroic soloist sooner or later, so now and again, the program felt a bit disjointed. However, the choir make a wall of sound with which we were well-impressed. Their Turandot, Carmen and the almost obligatory encore for this type of program, the chorus of the Hebrew slaves from Nabucco, were stand-outs.
Henny got us tickets right up front. It was fascinating to watch them so closely and see how they relate to Mme Gény. They all seemed to have a great time and so did we!
Again: sold!
Five years ago, I moved a few pieces of furniture here from my London life, notably a big sofa and an equally large antique Chinese coffee table. They stretched the limits of our awkwardly shaped living room. Now, as we're combining the effects of 3 homes into one, they're just too big. We decided the table should go. Efforts were made to sell it, no dice. I wrote to every dealer in Asian antiques I could find. I had some interesting correspondences, but not a glimmer of hope. Lovely piece, it was agreed, but bon courage trying to flog it during the crise financière.
A friendly British mover was passing through with an empty return van. A keen price was agreed to repatriate the table to London. I wasn't thrilled at the prospect of having it languish in my apartment, especially as it's in the throes of a re-paint. So, table back on ebay, for about the fourth time. Sigh.
Blow me down, there was an offer within a few hours that ended up being genuine! Better yet, the buyer was in North London. The table was sold before it ever left our house in France, and when it did, it was delivered directly to its new owner, never having to be set down in my flat after all. The charming Mr Chen paid cash as his insistence, thus avoiding fees. Does it get any better than this? As Henny says, 2011 is our sales year. I hope the karma continues for my ebay Christmas push!
Sunday
Baez in Béziers
On one of the many, many trips to Béziers for Henny's dislocated shoulder physio, I spied a little advert: Joan Baez at the Salle Zinga Zanga. I ordered two tickets. What the heck. I'd last seen her in Toronto with Bob Dylan in 1975. Though never my favourite artist, she was certainly part of my formative folkie years. And besides, how often does a legend hit Béziers? I'd tried to see her in London. Sold out in seconds. When she played in Montpellier two years ago, our plans got scuppered at the last minute. So October 6th was finally the night.
Fifth row seats, how fantastic! Joan sauntered on stage, no introduction. Gave a little bow. Picked up a guitar and off she went. In younger years, her voice was almost too much, too clear, sometimes even piercing. At age 70, her gift has diminished somewhat on the top notes, but it's no bad thing. Her voice has mellowed yet the clarity of her diction remains unparalleled. She's a generous performer who'd soon won over the entire house. We all sang along to the refrains of Dona Dona in our best voices, just like Joan, out of sheer respect.
Two years ago in Montpellier, Baez was the closing act for the Festival of the Guitar. Her free outdoor concert drew 19,000 people. There, it was Marianne Aya Omac who opened for her. They've since become friends and collaborated on a duet for Marianne's new album. In Béziers, Baez invited her on stage to do a couple of numbers together, which brought the house down. In support was Baez's formidable 'band' of one, Dirk Powell, who played every stringed instrument from banjo to mandolin to fiddle and keyboards.
But often it was just Baez and her guitar. She was mesmerising. And she doesn't seem to stop touring. If she comes your way, don't miss her.
Fifth row seats, how fantastic! Joan sauntered on stage, no introduction. Gave a little bow. Picked up a guitar and off she went. In younger years, her voice was almost too much, too clear, sometimes even piercing. At age 70, her gift has diminished somewhat on the top notes, but it's no bad thing. Her voice has mellowed yet the clarity of her diction remains unparalleled. She's a generous performer who'd soon won over the entire house. We all sang along to the refrains of Dona Dona in our best voices, just like Joan, out of sheer respect.
Two years ago in Montpellier, Baez was the closing act for the Festival of the Guitar. Her free outdoor concert drew 19,000 people. There, it was Marianne Aya Omac who opened for her. They've since become friends and collaborated on a duet for Marianne's new album. In Béziers, Baez invited her on stage to do a couple of numbers together, which brought the house down. In support was Baez's formidable 'band' of one, Dirk Powell, who played every stringed instrument from banjo to mandolin to fiddle and keyboards.
But often it was just Baez and her guitar. She was mesmerising. And she doesn't seem to stop touring. If she comes your way, don't miss her.
Thursday
Avignon
We've had our new (for us) car since May and haven't yet gone on a field trip. Our friend was showing her Saluki at the dog show in Avignon, which provided the impetus. It was an 'animal and nature' show, so all manner of domestic and a few farm animals were represented, including chinchillas, fancy ducks, tortoises, a tame wild boar, cute small goats, the list goes on. We were impressed by the size of Maine Coon cats and had fun watching the dog agility trials.
Enough of the dogs and on to the popes. We made our way to the centre of Avignon, where we were staying the night. The weather continues to be glorious. We had cocktails on a terrasse while watching the world pass, followed by a delicious meal on a cobbled square. Avignon is firmly on the tourist trail, but it's late in the season, so we had some of it almost to ourselves. We scrambled up the papal palace, strolled to the Pont d'Avignon, marveled at beautiful old stones and graceful spires, and just plain enjoyed a change of pace in a remarkable place.
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